When your servo
breaks or if you want to upgrade from a RTR-series servo, you need to
know how to change it. When you’re getting a new servo, you also
need to consider a few things before making the purchase and when
installing the new servo.
If your servo is damaged, the easiest fix is to buy a new one that is the same model. If you want to upgrade, you need to find out what kind of servo is compatible with your car and what level of performance you need. The cars in the 1:10 – 1:8 size range normally use a Standard-sized servo. If you’re not sure about the size, you can measure your old servo and choose a new one with the same measures.
The next thing you need to do is choose a servo that is powerful and fast enough for your car. There is no chart for how powerful a servo should be, so it is good to check what the manufacturers’ recommendations are. It’s important that the servo is fast and powerful enough to steer the car. Especially the 4WD cars require dynamic torque for proper on power steering. Here’s an approximate chart of the car types and examples of suitable servos.
1:10 2WD Buggy /
Torque: 6-12kg Speed: max. 0.12s
1:10 4WD Buggy
10-12kg Speed: max. 0.15s
1:10 4WD Short
Torque: 15-25kg Speed: max. 0.18s
Torque: +20kg Speed: max. 0.2s
The servo price range is quite wide. You could say the better the servo the higher the price. The servos of the biggest manufacturers like Highest, Savöx and Sanwa are more expensive, but they are stronger and more trustworthy compared to the servos of smaller names, even though they claim to have the same performance. Over the lifespan of one high quality servo, you may have a couple of small-name servos break down, even though the claimed performance is the same.
When replacing a servo, it’s important to check if the old servo horn is compatible with the new servo and buy a new servo horn if it’s not. Servo manufacturers use different bores – the most common are 23T (Sanwa, Acoms, Spektrum) and 25T (Futuba, Highest, Savöx). There are two different types of servo horns: short (generally Touring and 2WD buggies) and long (generally 1:8 Buggies). For cars with internal combustion engines there are double-horned servo horns (throttle and brake arm). Some servo horns are the offset-type, that bring the servo horn outwards in relation to the servo axle. It is possible that the above-mentioned servo horn don’t fit your car, so you have to use the original servo horn.
Installing the servo
You start the
process by removing the old servo from the car.
In the transmitter settings, set the End Point, Travel, Dual Rate to
100% (EPA, TRAVEL, ST D/R)
2. Set Trim and Sub Trim to 0 (center)
3. Connect the servo to the receiver’s steering channel (steering ch1, throttle/brake ch2)
4. Switch on the power on the transmitter and the car so you can see the servo center itself. Turn the wheel to make sure the servo turns and works normally.
5. Switch off the power on the car and the transmitter.
-> the servo is now centered.
Seting up the Transmitter
After this you set the turning direction, maximum travel range, and center point in the transmitter settings. It’s good to do the settings with the car wheels in air so you can better observe their movement.
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We do not replace or exchange products that are not defective or broken by improper use or have not been maintained. But we do help and teach you how to do things properly so you do not break anything in the future, just email us and we will help you out. We are however unable to wrench for you, its part of the hobby so its important that you will learn that part also your self, we have great tools to sell you so just ask us what you need.
Note! Many manufacturers are strickt that electronics are not allowed to be modified (connectors changed etc.) without disabling the warranty. Remember to check this from your products manual.
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