How to Glue RC Tires: Step-by-Step Guide for a Strong Bond

Gluing RC tires properly keeps them from peeling off mid-run and helps your car handle predictably. The whole process takes about 15-20 minutes per set once you've done it a few times.

In this guide, we'll walk you through everything from cleaning and prep to choosing the best tire glue for your needs. We'll also cover common mistakes that cause tires to come unglued, plus a few pro tips our team has picked up from years of racing and bashing.

What You'll Need to Glue RC Tires

Before you start, gather these items so you're not hunting for supplies mid-project:

• CA glue (thin or medium viscosity) for bonding the tire bead to the rim. You can find options in our glue and adhesives category.
• Brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol to remove mold-release residue from the manufacturing process.
• Foam or molded tire inserts that match your tire size. Not sure what fits your wheels? Our tire and wheel size guide can help.
• Rubber bands or tire bands to hold the tire and wheel assembly together while the glue cures.
• A clean, lint-free cloth for wiping down surfaces.
• A flat work surface where you can roll and press the tires.

Most RC hobbyists already have these items around, so you're probably ready to go.

Which RC Tire Glue Should You Use?

Not all tire glue is the same, and picking the right one can make the job easier. Here's how the three main types compare:

1. Thin CA glue flows like water. It wicks into tight beads automatically, which makes it the best choice for racing tires with snug fits. The downside is that it sets fast, so you need to work quickly.
2. Medium CA glue flows more like oil. It gives you extra working time to position the tire bead properly before it cures. If you're new to gluing tires, this is a good place to start.
3. Thick or gel CA glue stays where you put it. It's useful for filling gaps or doing spot repairs on tires that are starting to peel, but it's not ideal for mounting a new set of tires from scratch.

We recommend starting with medium viscosity if this is your first time. Once you're comfortable with the method, you can flip to thin CA for faster work. Either way, hobby-grade CA from our glues and thread locks section will hold up better than hardware store super glue, especially under the stress of hard bashing or competitive racing.



Step 1: Clean the Tire Bead and Rim

This step is easy to skip, and that's exactly why so many tires come unglued. During the manufacturing process, mold-release agents coat the rubber and plastic to help parts pop out of their molds. That residue prevents glue from bonding properly to the surface.

Grab your brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and wipe down both the tire bead (the inner lip of the tire) and the rim's mounting channel. Use a clean cloth and let everything dry completely before moving on.

Skipping this step is the number one reason RC tires peel off. Take your time here, and you'll save yourself frustration later. For more cleaning tips, check out our guide on how to clean your RC car properly.

Step 2: Install and Trim the Foam Insert

Now it's time to get the insert inside the tire. There are two main types you'll run into:

1. Closed-cell foam inserts are denser and usually come in blue or black. They hold their shape well and typically don't need any trimming.
2. Open-cell foam inserts are softer and white. They're more likely to bunch up at the sidewalls, so you may need to trim the edges with scissors.

To install, place the foam insert inside the tire and roll the whole thing between your palms. This helps the insert seat evenly without bunching. If it still bulges at the edges, trim 1-4mm from each corner so it sits about that much wider than the tire's inner width. You can find scale-specific options like 1/10 off-road inserts in our shop.



Step 3: Mount the Tire on the Wheel

With the insert in place, you're ready to put the tire and wheel together. Start by stretching the tire onto the rim from one side, then carefully work your way around. If your tires are directional (they have arrows on the sidewall showing which way they should spin), make sure you're assembling them as left and right pairs.

The tire bead needs to sit evenly in the mounting channel all the way around. Roll the tire on a flat surface and press down to help the insert and bead seat smoothly. Give the assembly a spin and look for bulges or gaps. If the tire is not seated properly, pull it off and start again. Gluing a poorly seated bead locks the problem in permanently.

You can browse our full selection of tires and wheels or go straight to 1/10 off-road tires if that's what you're running.

Step 4: Apply CA Glue to the Bead

Before you touch the glue, wrap rubber bands around the tire to hold it tightly against the rim. This keeps the bead in the channel while you work.

Now, pull back the tire bead slightly to expose the mounting channel underneath. Place a thin line of glue in the channel, then release the bead and press it back into place. Work in small sections, about 2-3 inches at a time, and run the glue around the tire as you go. Thin CA will flow and wick into the gap on its own. Medium CA needs a bit more pressure to spread.

After you finish one side, squeeze the tire in your hands to make sure everything is seated properly. Then flip the wheel over and repeat on the other side.

Don't flood the channel with glue. A thin, consistent bead bonds better than puddles. If you need more CA glue for RC tires, we've got you covered.

Step 5: Secure with Bands and Let Cure

Keep those rubber bands in place while the glue sets. Thin CA is usually dry to the touch in about 30 seconds and handleable within 5-10 minutes. Full bond strength takes 8-24 hours to develop, so don't rush it.

After about 10 minutes, do a quick test. Gently pull back the tire bead and see if any section lifts. If it does, add a little more glue to that spot and press it down again.

For race day, we recommend gluing your tires the night before. This gives the bond plenty of time to cure completely. While you're waiting, it's a good opportunity to tackle other maintenance tasks. Our guide on shock absorber basics and oil changes walks you through another job that's easy to knock out during downtime. For more on getting your car ready for competition, take a look at our tips on preparing for a race day.

Should You Vent Your RC Tires?

This is a question that comes up a lot, especially from racers and bashers who push their cars hard. Vent holes let air escape when tires compress on landing or when you're driving over rough terrain. Without them, air pressure builds up inside the tire, which can cause ballooning, tearing at the sidewall, or even a full blowout at high speed.

If you're doing any off-road driving or hitting big jumps, venting is a good idea. For smooth on-road surfaces, it's less of a concern.

There are two common methods:

1. Wheel venting works well for most scales. Use a body reamer or drill to punch 2-4 small holes (about 2-4mm) in the wheel dish, spacing them on opposite sides. Smaller holes (around 2mm) work fine for most applications, while larger holes provide faster air release for aggressive bashing.
2. Tire venting is popular for 1/8 buggy tires and other large-scale rubber. Instead of drilling the wheel, you punch holes in the tire tread using a tire punch tool. This gives you finer control over air release.

Before you drill anything, check your wheels. Some come pre-vented from the factory. Also, if you're running off-road tires in dusty conditions, keep in mind that vent holes can let dirt and debris inside the tire over time.

Common Tire Gluing Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)

Even experienced hobbyists slip up now and then. Here are the mistakes we see most often:

1. Skipping the cleaning step. Mold-release residue is invisible, but it's there. Always wipe down the bead and rim with brake cleaner or alcohol.
2. Gluing a poorly seated bead. If the tire isn't sitting evenly in the channel before you glue, it won't magically fix itself. Check the fit carefully first.
3. Using too much glue. More isn't better. A thin, even bead bonds stronger than a thick glob that doesn't cure properly in the middle.
4. Running tires before full cure. We get it, you want to drive. But if you hit the track before the glue reaches full strength, you're asking for a blowout. Wait overnight, or at least 8 hours for best results.
5. Using old or cheap glue. CA glue has a shelf life. If yours is thick and gummy, toss it and grab a fresh bottle. Hardware store super glue works in a pinch, but it doesn't handle flexing and heat as well as hobby-grade CA.

For more on keeping your car in top shape, our basic car maintenance guide covers the essentials.

Pro Tips from the EuroRC Team

Our race team has glued thousands of tires over the years. Here's what we've learned:

• Do the inside-facing beads first. If you're still getting the hang of the technique, your early work might be a little messy. By doing the inside beads first, your better work ends up on the outside where it shows.
• Check tires after every 2-3 hours of run time. Especially after hard bashing or racing, take a minute to inspect the beads. If you spot any lifting, clean the area and re-glue it before the separation spreads.
• Mix glue types for the best of both worlds. Some racers use medium CA on the first bead for extra working time, then switch to thin CA on the second bead for faster wicking.
• Store your CA glue in the refrigerator. Cold temperatures slow down the curing process inside the bottle, which extends shelf life. Just let the glue warm to room temperature for a minute or two before opening to prevent condensation. And make sure it's somewhere kids can't reach.

Dialing in your tires is just one piece of the setup puzzle. If you're looking to fine-tune your car's handling further, our shock oil setup guide covers how different oil weights affect suspension feel. And if you're racing indoors, our indoor tire recommendations for 1/10 off-road can help you pick the right compound and tread pattern.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use regular super glue on RC tires?

Regular super glue bonds RC tires but doesn't handle flexing and heat as well as hobby-grade CA glue. Hardware store super glue works for a quick fix, but tires may peel after heavy bashing or racing. For long-lasting bonds, use CA glue made for RC hobbies.

How long does RC tire glue take to dry?

RC tire glue sets in 30 seconds and becomes handleable in 5-10 minutes. Full bond strength takes 8-24 hours to cure. For race day, glue your tires the night before. Casual bashing typically requires at least 15-20 minutes of cure time before driving.

Why do my RC tires keep coming unglued?

RC tires come unglued mainly because of mold-release residue left from the manufacturing process. Skipping the cleaning step prevents proper bonding. Other causes include poorly seated beads, running tires before full cure, and using old or dried-out glue.

Should I vent my RC tires?

Vent RC tires for off-road driving and bashing with jumps. Punch 2-4 small holes in the wheel dish or tire sidewall to release air pressure on impact. Without venting, tires can balloon or blow off the rim at high speed. On-road racing needs less venting.

Now Get Out There and Glue Some Tires

You've got the knowledge. Now it's time to put it into practice. Grab a set of tires you've been meaning to mount, gather your supplies, and work through the steps at your own pace. Your first set might take a little longer, but by the second or third, you'll have the rhythm down.

If you're missing any supplies, our glues and adhesives section has everything you need to get started. And if you run into questions along the way, our team is always happy to help. Just reach out at info@eurorc.com or use the chat on our site.