Remember to use Lipo Bag when charging and storing your Lipo batteries!
The second part of the build is all about body and electronics.
I have been using Sanwa servos in many applications with great success so SRG-HR was an easy choice for steering. It is not cheap, but there must be a reason for most pro drivers using this same unit in their cars.
For speed controller there is lot's to choose from. Again I went with what I know as a reliable brand, Hobbywing. They just released a new version for 1S use - the XR1
allready - but theres even more. It has a build in capasitor so there is
even more space and weight savings. Here is a comparison to a very
popular traxxas speedo so you will get the idea how small this thing
really is, even being capable to power even the most powerfull modified
The is this general wisdom that using engine and speedo from the same
brand will give you good andpredictable results. So I went with
Hobbywing V10 G2 13.5T standard version. Hobbywing and other
manufacturers also have outlaw version of the same turn amount, but they
have been banned in 12TrackTour regulations.
Also the speedo must be in blinky mode. But you are allowed to adjust the mechanical timing from the engine. That will change the torgue curve of the engine. The V10 G2 has nice markings and has good range for tuning in the timing.
One of the most popular body for GT-12 class has been the Protoform.
Two coats of fasmask
Draw your paint scheme on the outside
Cut - remove mask - paint - repeat
And finally it's done.
To actually attach the GT12 body to the chassis you will need two sets of longer body posts, part number 301323.
Next part will be about adjusting everything at the track and wheels - stay tuned.
Build by Aapo "Ruusperi" Koro
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